Whisky Chronicles: From Salt-Infused Warehouses to Peat-Lad Bogs en – A Maritime Journey in Northern Scotland
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In the Heart of Norse Legacy
A Rainy Day in Wick, Scotland![](data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciIHdpZHRoPSIxMDI0IiBoZWlnaHQ9IjY3NiIgdmlld0JveD0iMCAwIDEwMjQgNjc2Ij48cmVjdCB3aWR0aD0iMTAwJSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxMDAlIiBzdHlsZT0iZmlsbDojY2ZkNGRiO2ZpbGwtb3BhY2l0eTogMC4xOyIvPjwvc3ZnPg==)
Rain poured down on the ancient Norse settlement of Wick, nestled along the rugged shores of northern Scotland. The ocean roared with whitecaps, and gulls danced in the squally air. Inside the expansive warehouses of Old Pulteney, a distillery with a 198-year legacy renowned for its maritime malt, I could sense the brackish air weaving its enchantment on the wooden whisky casks, enhancing the sweet, briny flavor with each passing day.
Exploring the Sea-Infused Whisky Culture of Northern Scotland![](data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciIHdpZHRoPSIxMDI0IiBoZWlnaHQ9IjQ0OSIgdmlld0JveD0iMCAwIDEwMjQgNDQ5Ij48cmVjdCB3aWR0aD0iMTAwJSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxMDAlIiBzdHlsZT0iZmlsbDojY2ZkNGRiO2ZpbGwtb3BhY2l0eTogMC4xOyIvPjwvc3ZnPg==)
During a guided tour of one of Old Pulteney’s four warehouses, my guide, Daniel Ross, and I marveled at the orderly rows of bourbon barrels, each marked with the year of filling. Some dated back to 2002, a time not much distant from Ross’s 25 years. With a knowing glance, he pointed out the open windows high on the warehouse walls, explaining how the wind sprayed seawater, settling like fairy dust on the casks. “Over 12 years, the whisky seeps into the wood, reaching the salt,” he remarked.
Unveiling the Mysteries of Maritime Whisky at Links House in Dornoch![](data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciIHdpZHRoPSI5NjciIGhlaWdodD0iNjQ0IiB2aWV3Qm94PSIwIDAgOTY3IDY0NCI+PHJlY3Qgd2lkdGg9IjEwMCUiIGhlaWdodD0iMTAwJSIgc3R5bGU9ImZpbGw6I2NmZDRkYjtmaWxsLW9wYWNpdHk6IDAuMTsiLz48L3N2Zz4=)
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The previous evening in Dornoch, a seaside town, I sat with Michael Hanratty, manager of the Carnegie Whisky Cellars. Here, I sought to understand how a single malt could embody the essence of the ocean it overlooked. “Something has to fill the void,” Hanratty explained, referring to the “angel’s share,” the whisky lost to evaporation (about two percent a year), and that something is the sea air. “When the whisky breathes, it draws in that salty character.”
Resurrecting Ghost Distilleries
A Visit to Brora![](data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciIHdpZHRoPSIxMDI0IiBoZWlnaHQ9Ijc2OCIgdmlld0JveD0iMCAwIDEwMjQgNzY4Ij48cmVjdCB3aWR0aD0iMTAwJSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxMDAlIiBzdHlsZT0iZmlsbDojY2ZkNGRiO2ZpbGwtb3BhY2l0eTogMC4xOyIvPjwvc3ZnPg==)
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Demand for maritime whisky has led to the revival of ghost distilleries like Brora, closed in 1983 after over 160 years. Reopened in 2021, Brora’s whisky, akin to Old Pulteney, doesn’t carry the signature smoke but exudes notes of ocean spray. Unfortunately, the tasting room’s irregular hours dashed my hopes of sampling its described “briny umami hints, redolent of sushi rolls.”
Journey to the Flow Country
Peatlands, Whisky, and Conservation![](data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciIHdpZHRoPSIxMDI0IiBoZWlnaHQ9Ijc2OCIgdmlld0JveD0iMCAwIDEwMjQgNzY4Ij48cmVjdCB3aWR0aD0iMTAwJSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxMDAlIiBzdHlsZT0iZmlsbDojY2ZkNGRiO2ZpbGwtb3BhY2l0eTogMC4xOyIvPjwvc3ZnPg==)
En route to the Flow Country, a vast wet peatland in the far north, I explored Forsinard Flows nature reserve. Managed by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds, the 52,000-acre preserve offers a glimpse into the intricate ecosystem sustaining life. Peat, a critical component in whisky production, serves as both fuel and a source of signature smokiness.
Forss House Hotel
Whimsical Decor and Northern Hospitality![](data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciIHdpZHRoPSIxMDI0IiBoZWlnaHQ9Ijc2OCIgdmlld0JveD0iMCAwIDEwMjQgNzY4Ij48cmVjdCB3aWR0aD0iMTAwJSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxMDAlIiBzdHlsZT0iZmlsbDojY2ZkNGRiO2ZpbGwtb3BhY2l0eTogMC4xOyIvPjwvc3ZnPg==)
A winding drive through wind farms led me to Forss House Hotel near Thurso. Built in 1810, the hotel combines whimsical decor with elaborate dinners and generous afternoon tea. Nestled at the northernmost end of the NC 500, it serves as a perfect base for exploring the region and indulging in the warmth of a crackling fire and a well-stocked bar.
Old Pulteney’s Time-Honored Rituals
Malting, Mashing, and Distilling![](data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciIHdpZHRoPSIxMDI0IiBoZWlnaHQ9IjEwMjQiIHZpZXdCb3g9IjAgMCAxMDI0IDEwMjQiPjxyZWN0IHdpZHRoPSIxMDAlIiBoZWlnaHQ9IjEwMCUiIHN0eWxlPSJmaWxsOiNjZmQ0ZGI7ZmlsbC1vcGFjaXR5OiAwLjE7Ii8+PC9zdmc+)
Back at Old Pulteney, I delved into the distillery’s time-honored rituals with veteran distillers. Amidst discussions of temperatures and measurements, the yeasty fragrance filled the air. The tasting room, though modern, offered a diverse range of single malts, including a new coastal series with a second maturation in French casks.
A Toast to Maritime Whisky
Where Rain Today Means Whisky Tomorrow![](data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciIHdpZHRoPSIxMDI0IiBoZWlnaHQ9IjU3NiIgdmlld0JveD0iMCAwIDEwMjQgNTc2Ij48cmVjdCB3aWR0aD0iMTAwJSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxMDAlIiBzdHlsZT0iZmlsbDojY2ZkNGRiO2ZpbGwtb3BhY2l0eTogMC4xOyIvPjwvc3ZnPg==)
As I departed Old Pulteney, I pondered Hanratty’s words: “Today’s rain is tomorrow’s whisky.” Thick raindrops began to fall again, promising another day filled with the essence of the region’s cherished spirits.